i just watched riding giants, a documentary on surfing. the last time i surfed was probably about 9 or 10 years ago. it was not very successfull. the movie was very inspiring. i would so love to be apart of a revolution like those california surfers of the 50's. nobody else can claim that experience. it is completely theirs, the few. i am 26. am i already too old to be this dreamer?
1 comment:
no. but you need to learn how to swim first.
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